Common permit questions — answered

Not always — but usually yes. Most states require a permit for decks that are attached to the house or higher than 30 inches above grade. Small detached ground-level platforms under 200 sq ft are often exempt. Rules vary significantly by state and county, so always check with your local building department before starting.

It depends on size. Most jurisdictions exempt sheds under 100–120 sq ft that sit on skids (not a permanent foundation). Anything larger, or with electrical or plumbing, typically requires a permit. HOA rules may be stricter than local code regardless of size.

Cosmetic work — new tile, fixtures, vanity — generally does not require a permit. The moment you move plumbing, add electrical outlets, or relocate a wall, a permit is required. Most full bathroom remodels involve at least one of these and therefore do need a permit.

Many states require a permit for a full roof replacement (tear-off and re-shingle), but not for minor repairs or patching. States with strict wind/hurricane codes — Florida, Texas, Louisiana — almost always require one. Budget $75–$250 for the permit and confirm with your county building department.

Short fences (under 6 feet) are often exempt, but many cities require permits for fences over 4 feet in a front yard or 6–8 feet in a backyard. Permits typically cost $25–$100. Always check setback requirements too — you may not be able to build right on the property line.

Yes, in virtually every jurisdiction. An ADU (accessory dwelling unit) is treated as new construction and requires building, electrical, and plumbing permits at minimum. Costs range from $1,000–$5,000+ in permit fees depending on the state. California and Oregon have streamlined the process significantly in recent years.

Yes. Finishing a basement — adding walls, electrical, HVAC, and insulation — is considered new living space and always requires a permit. Inspectors will check egress window sizing, ceiling height, and smoke/CO detector placement. Skipping the permit can cause serious problems when you sell.

Yes, always. Any addition that expands the footprint or envelope of your home requires a building permit — plus sub-permits for electrical, plumbing, and mechanical work. Expect the process to take 4–12 weeks from application to approval depending on your jurisdiction.

Straight replacement of windows the same size usually does not require a permit in most states. Enlarging the opening — cutting through the wall to install a bigger window — does require one. Energy code compliance (U-factor ratings) is also checked in many northern states.

Yes — both in-ground and above-ground pools over a certain depth (typically 24 inches) require a permit in most states. Safety fencing is mandated by code in all 50 states. Permit costs run $100–$500 and inspections cover barrier requirements, bonding, and electrical grounding.

Yes. A detached or attached garage is a new structure and always requires a building permit. You will also need electrical sub-permits if you are adding lights, outlets, or EV charging. Setback rules and fire separation requirements (for attached garages) will be reviewed during inspection.

Yes — a building permit for roof penetrations plus an electrical permit are required in virtually all jurisdictions. Your solar installer will typically pull the permits as part of the installation contract. California limits residential solar permit fees to $500 under SB 379.

In most states, yes — replacing an HVAC system requires a mechanical permit and sometimes an electrical permit. Like-for-like replacements (same location, same capacity) are often streamlined. Your HVAC contractor should pull the permit; if they say you do not need one, get a second opinion.

Replacing cabinets, countertops, and appliances in the same locations generally does not require a permit. Moving plumbing, adding circuits, or removing walls triggers permit requirements. A full gut renovation of a kitchen almost always requires at least electrical and plumbing permits.

You risk fines ($200–$5,000+), a stop-work order, and being forced to tear down or open up finished work for inspection. When you sell, unpermitted work surfaces in the home inspection and can kill the sale or reduce your price. Retroactive permits are possible but expensive and stressful.

Simple permits (decks, sheds, fences) are often issued over-the-counter or within 1–5 business days. Complex permits for additions, ADUs, and new construction can take 4–16 weeks in busy jurisdictions like Los Angeles, Seattle, or Austin. Many cities now offer online applications that speed things up.

Permit fees range widely: $50–$150 for simple projects like fences or water heaters, $150–$500 for decks and roofs, $500–$3,000 for room additions, and $1,000–$10,000+ for large ADUs or new construction. Many jurisdictions base fees on project valuation — typically 0.5%–2% of total construction cost.

In most states, yes — homeowners can pull permits for work on their primary residence and take on personal responsibility for code compliance. Some states restrict this for electrical or gas work. If you hire a contractor, they should always pull the permit themselves — if they refuse, that is a red flag.

Usually yes if it is attached to the house or over 200 sq ft. Freestanding pergolas under 200 sq ft are often exempt, but not always. If you add electrical lighting or a ceiling fan, an electrical permit is always required regardless of size.

Yes. Most permits expire after 6–12 months if work has not started, or if there has been no inspection activity for 180 days. You can usually apply for a one-time extension. Letting a permit expire means you will need to reapply and repay fees — and the rules may have changed in the interim.